Thursday 13 September - Bellanoch (Crinan Canal) to Cairnbaan

Drizzle or rain for most of the day.  We went up the 5 Dunardry locks and then down the 4 Cairnbaan locks.  This started very slowly as we had to turn the locks round before entering.  After 2 locks we got some help from the lock-keeper and moved a little faster.  The summit level of the canal between these 2 sets of locks is quite short and so does not hold much water.  I was surprised to see that the level has at least half a metre below normal – there has been plenty of rain.  We stopped for lunch just before the Cairnbaan locks and then had some help from the lock-keepers which made it much quicker.

The rain continued for much of the evening, but a brief break allowed us to visit the bar at the Cairnbaan hotel without getting wet.  This is a good stopping place with plenty of room on the pontoons so tomorrow we hope to visit Kilmartin

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Going up

Wednesday 12 September 2012 – Puilladobhrain to Bellanoch (Crinan Canal)

The wind and sea state seemed much better then yesterday, so we had our first early start of the trip to get through the tidal gates of the Sound of Luing and the Dorus Mor.  We meant to start at 6, but eventually made 6:30, by which time it was easily light enough.  After getting clear of the anchorage we motored as far as Isle Insh, by which time we could make adequate speed under sail with the wind from W or NW.  We did not seem to get much tidal assistance through the Sound of Luing and by the time we came to the Dorus Mor (which means Big Door) we were against about 2 knots of tide.  After entering the canal we stopped at the “bird hide” near Bellanoch.  In the afternoon we biked to the place where the beavers have been re-introduced.  No luck with seeing them, but we were advised that the best time is about dusk.  So we returned later but still did not see anything.  The cycling made a welcome change from sitting around on the boat.

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Morning sky shortly after leaving

In the sea lock at Crinan

Toytown swing bridge.
The bridge keeper turns a handle to open it

View over the river Add and Moine Mhor

The hill in the middle of the marsh is Dunadd,
ancient capital of the Dalriadan kings

Moored by the bird hide

The Beavers’ dam

Lake made by the beavers’ dam

Tuesday 11 September - Puilladobhrain

Our position in the anchorage had a view across the Firth of Lorne – just a small amount is visible through a gap in the rocks.  The sea state looked most uninviting, with lots of white horses.  In the anchorage the wind was strong and gusty, with the strong wind coming with heavy rain showers under patches of dark cloud.  Apart from the wind and rain it was a sunny day and the solar panels did useful charging.  We sat around all morning reading, knitting and doing a few minor boat jobs, with the intention of going south on the afternoon ebb tide if the wind lessened.  However the wind remained until late into the evening, so we stayed put.

We plan to go on the last of the morning ebb tomorrow.

Hoping for some lunch

Monday 10 September 2012 – Tobermory to Puilladobhrain

Essential shopping in Tobermory (that means chocolate shortbread from the cake shop).  Rather a slow sail.  However we sailed most of the way and Pam caught 4 fish (Mackerel).

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Looking towards Mull

View or Firth of Lorne between the rocks. Mull behind

Looking towards the entrance to the anchorage

Sunday 9 September 2012 – Salen to Tobermory

Damp and drizzly morning with odd bits of gusty wind – not enough to really stop us going anywhere but enough to provoke a postponement.  So we chatted to the people on the other boat and then had a cup of coffee and made sandwiches.  We put in a single reef and departed.  It soon became apparent that the bay at Salen was quite sheltered!  We found strong gusty wind, black clouds and white horses, and it felt as if something would break, so put in a second reef.  After the job was done and the massive flapping of sails had finished the boat seemed to go along quite happily under main only at 4 – 5 knots thanks to the lack of waves.  We could see the far end of the black cloud so carried on hoping for improvement.  It did not seem to be sensible to fiddle with the genoa with no proper tack fixing in the wind, so rigged the storm jib which worked well.  Of course the wind died back somewhat but we made good progress and moored at the pontoons at Tobermory – 2 pontoons in 2 days! what luxury!

Tomorrow we will buy shortbread and other tasty stuff from the bread shop and head to Oban or Puilladobhrain.   The general trend of the weather is very unsettled with depressions queued up across the Atlantic.  We were expecting a lot of wind on Wednesday, but this now seems to have been delayed until Thursday. Hopefully we can be in the Crinan Canal by then where we can get wet but not blown about.  The change of weather is giving the place a very end-of-season feeling – we are taking the hint and heading south.

I forgot to mention it yesterday but the deepest parts of Loch Sunart are more than 400m deep.  That's according to the chart - the echo sounder can never see more than 20-30m.  So it is the deepest  water we have ever sailed on.

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New pontoons at Salen

Salen bay from the head of the bay

Looking back at Salen.
We did not get round to photos in the windy bit!

Saturday 8 September 2012 – Loch Drumbuie to Salen (Ardnamurchan)

Weather still misty with drizzle so we put off doing anything for a bit.  I guess it’s the turn of the South East to have some fine summer weather – there have been several weeks when we have had brilliant weather and have heard on the radio of rain, floods etc further south.  Now the jetstream is back in its normal place and so it’s time for us to head south. To play for time we decided to motor round to Sailean Mor which is a narrow inlet in the tidal island of Oronsay.  We had been there years ago in the Wayfarer.  This formed a pleasant lunch stop and we have since heard that the innermost part dries out to sand and is a good place to shelter in bad weather.

After lunch we motored and sailed slowly up Loch Sunart and stopped at Salen.  This has been much improved since our last visit and now has 4 moorings and a new pontoon with several spaces.  We chose the pontoon. After supper we walked to the hotel for a drink.  Whilst chatting to a pensioner couple who had moved here a few years ago we were entertained to note that the wife had finished a bottle of wine; however the husband was drinking beer so we could not measure his consumption.  On the walk back to the boat we carefully stepped off the road whenever we heard a car.

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Approaching Loch Sunart

Friday 7 September 2012 – Eigg to Loch Drumbuie

A brief trip ashore for teabags – panic over.  The shop is well-stocked for a small island shop but unfortunately we don’t need anything else.

We left at high water with the intention of going to Tobermory or anywhere else suitable on the way south.  The genoa seemed to work OK with the tack tied down with string.  The problem is that because the furling drum is in the way it has to be tied down a bit behind its normal place. However I don’t want to take the furling drum off as it’s still possible to furl the sail once I have untied the tack tie down string. The wind remained light so there was no great stress on the sail.  After a while drizzle and mist filled in and continued for the rest of the afternoon – the first traditional Scottish weather we have had on this trip.  Saw 2 cruise ships and went to Loch Drumbuie as Tobermory might be a bit busy.

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Approaching Ardnamurchan Point – low cloud beyond

Ardnamurchan lighthouse  now in the mist.