We expected this to be a motoring day and started in time to make good use of the tide not bothering to hoist the mainsail as it would just get wet in the rain. After a while a bit of wind arrived and we could sail properly. Meanwhile the almost sea-level cloud slowly lifted from the surrounding land. We kept a careful eye on our track to make sure we did not follow the tide down the Gulf of Corryvreckan and were surprised to see a Calmac ship “Lord of the Isles” coming through slowly against the tide. To our further surprise she turned round and went back again, getting up to 19 knots according to her AIS. I didn’t know Calmac ran joy-rides.
Once through The Sound of Luing we turned West just before the strange island of Balnahua. This has been almost completely quarried away as it was made of slate. A strange-shaped cliff remains, which I presume is not slate, together with a few ruined buildings. We then beat against a much smaller tidal flow to the island of Eileach an Naoimh (pron: Neeve). This is the most interesting of the Garvellachs. The anchorage faces SW, directly into today’s wind, which was less than ideal. However the wind was light and weather seemed settled so we anchored, had lunch and went ashore. We explored the ruins which also include "beehive" cells, chapel, food store, an old monastery graveyard etc, all carefully maintained and with minimum signs. This was not a good anchorage to spend the night, and they say there are ghosts on the island, so we moved a few miles North (against the tide again) to Eilean Dubh Mor, which has quite a safe anchorage. The rocks seemed to be very close on each side as we swung to the anchor, but from the shore it looks as if we have lots of room. Brief trip to the island which is used for survival training, so bearing evidence of human teenage visitation, like the dry firewood and bracken bedding in a cave, the odd lost sock and sweetie packet.
Tomorrow we may go to Oban or if wind to Tobermory as we badly need to buy some food and also fill up with water.
Follow our
track on Google Maps.
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| Scarba wrapped in cloud |
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| “Beehive” cells |
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| Anchorage at Eileach an Naoimh |
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| Graveyard and other parts of the ruins |
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| Food store or punishment cell |
