Overnight an annoying bit of swell had moved into the bay. Annoying because there was no wind so you might not expect the swell. I put the keel down as it had started to clonk and went back to bed. There was a light wind from SE, so we headed for he Eilean Mor, the largest of the MacCormic Isles, as this was the nearest interesting place in the right direction. We ran out of tide just before arriving, as I had omitted to notice that the inshore stream changes 1 hour earlier than the main stream. We motored into a small sheltered inlet and anchored. Later an old Clyde puffer carrying a charter party arrived and anchored off the entrance. Their steam windlass made a great clanking noise dropping the anchor, with lots of steam coming out around the bow. Then more clanking as they used it to lower the dinghy.
The island is very interesting and well cared for. It was given to the SNP some years ago (why would they want an island? Maybe one without constituents is no bother) and is run by a trust. We met some people from the trust who were there in a motor boat. Explored the old chapel and hermit’s cave. Decided to stay overnight and tied the stern to a ring in the rock to discourage the boat from swinging. There is a corncrake calling from very near the anchorage, but of course we cannot see it.
Tomorrow we head North, hopefully to the Garvellachs in the Firth or Lorne. We can either go through the Sound of Luing or through the Gulf of Corryvreckan(!). Going via the latter at slack tide means we would be against tide in the Firth of Lorne, so maybe that’s not a good option.
Follow our
track on Google Maps.
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| Ancient Celtic Cross (top is missing) |
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| Mooring to a ring on the bank |
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| Replica cross. Original in the museum in Edinburgh |
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| Remains of the chapel by the cave |
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| Getting busy! The Clyde puffer anchored outside and brought people ashore |
